Walking through History: The Pilgrimage of the Dekapentávgoustos from Karitsa to the Monastery of Elona

The trek to Elona Monastery is more than a very long walk;

it's a testament to our ancestors' resilience and devotion.

At this time of the year, from as far back as our oral tradition can recall, a spiritually rejuvenating ritual unfolds in Karitsa as the days approach the Dekapentávgoustos (15th of August). People of faith, not only from our village but also from nearby ones, as well as from all the settlements in Kynouria and Southern Parnon, embark on a devout pilgrimage—a journey that beautifully combines faith, unity of the community, and a deep connection with nature. This pilgrimage leads to the renowned monastery of Elona, perched precariously on steep cliffs, a two-hour hike from our neighbouring village, Kosmas, in Kynouria

Nowadays, this tradition has evolved into a simple drive or a symbolic walk along just a portion of the road, usually from Kosmas to the monastery gates. However, in the past, the pilgrimage followed a very different route and experience. Up until about fifty years ago, the journey began in the darkness of the night, departing from Karitsa around 4:00 in the morning, long before dawn, when the air seemed to echo with anticipation as our ancestors traversed a path winding through rugged mountains. For them, this undertaking was both a test of physical endurance and a profound spiritual journey.

The path to the renowned monastery held its own charm as it followed the ancient mule track across the tough terrain from Karitsa to Kosmas and onwards to the monastery itself. Each step was testament to their courage and resilience, as they conquered towering peaks and crossed dense fir forests.

As the sun gradually rose, warming their backs and casting light on the trail, the pilgrims advanced. The steps through the woods and the soft rustling of leaves accompanied them like faithful companions. Along the way, they encountered more of nature's wonders. Landmarks with names like Diaselo, Sourmpanos,, Skala, and Lampraiiki Sterna adorned the path, creating moments of admiration and reflection.

And so, after ten hours of walking through their natural surroundings, as the watch hands approached 2:00 in the afternoon, the pilgrims had completed the journey, their faces reflecting a mixture of exhaustion and euphoria. They had covered not only a physical distance but also delved deeper into their own dedication and determination. This pilgrimage, a complex tapestry of ancient customs and personal introspection, served as evidence of the enduring power of faith and the unbreakable bonds of the community.

The monastery, the gates of which they had just reached and were ready to enter, seemed to hang perilously from the red rock of the steep cliff, as if holding on with all its might. The panoramic view that takes one's breath away, embracing the towering cliffs of the surrounding mountains, truly inspires awe. It's no wonder, then, that the Elona Monastery has remained the most devout, revered, and sacred place throughout the expanse of Southern Parnon.

According to local oral tradition, the origins of the monastery date back to the 14th century when our shepherd ancestors began to notice a flickering light from an inaccessible point on the cliff. A candle was lit in front of a sacred icon, which, through their prayers, appeared to descend further down the cliff. And when the boldest of the faithful managed to climb the rock, they discovered that it was indeed a sacred image of the "Panagia Vrefokratousa" (Virgin Mary Nursing the Christ Child).

With devotion, on that very spot, they first constructed a small wooden chapel, which later evolved into a small monastery with two cells for the monks. Over time and through numerous donations, the chapel evolved into something resembling today's Monastery.

As for the distinctive name of the Monastery, there are several theories: one claims it's related to the nearby cave "Eloni," another attributes it to a derivation of the local Tsakonian dialect word "eounis," meaning "merciful," while yet another suggests that during the Venetian rule, Lakonians from Elos and Elochoria relocated an icon of the Panagia from their region to the Monastery, giving it the name "Panagia of Elona."

Sorrowfully, the monastery was pillaged, set on fire, and destroyed numerous times during the Ottoman period. The construction of the main temple as we know it today, nestled within the hollow under the rock, began gradually around 1809, with the marble bell tower added in 1831. The temple follows the style of a vaulted basilica and has four entrances, lacking frescoes but adorned with countless candles on its ceiling. The wooden-carved iconostasis is a masterpiece, and its images bear the dates 1798, 1806, and 1815. Centrepiece of the temple is the "miraculous" icon of Panagia, adorned with flowers, gifts, and silver, concealing its age, style, and the identity of the iconographer who crafted it. Even so, according to tradition, it's considered the work of St. Luke the Evangelist.

The complex of cells, residences for the nuns, and quiet places for the faithful, spans three floors. The monastery also houses two small chapels: Zoodóchos Pigí and Agíon Pánton.

Today, even though the long nocturnal journeys may have taken on different forms, Elona remains a place of continuous pilgrimage throughout the year, with significant celebrations on August 15th, August 23rd, and November 21st. Amidst the waves of turmoil and triumph, the Elona Monastery stands as a beacon, drawing the faithful with its panoramic view and nourishing their souls with the whispered wisdom of faith. This pilgrimage, whether from Karitsa, Kynouria, or Southern Parnon, where footsteps echo like the steps of history, reaffirms the enduring strength of faith, the beauty of communal bonds, and the deep-rooted connection between the human spirit and the marvels of nature.